Where Erbil remembers: A cafe that became Iraq’s visual archive

Shafaq News– Erbil

Mam Khalil Cafe in Erbil’s historic Qaysari Bazaar has become a living archive of Iraq’s modern political life, with walls covered in photographs collected since the cafe opened in 1952.

The cafe was founded by the late Khalil Mohammed and is now run by his son, Mohammed Khalil, who told Shafaq News that the images include Iraqi political figures, cultural personalities, and foreign visitors. Some were taken during visits to the cafe, while others were gathered to document key moments and figures in the country’s history.

“The photos were never meant as decoration,” Mohammed Khalil explained. “They became the identity of the place.”

Regular patrons say the cafe offers more than drinks. Mehdi Saleh, a longtime customer, recalled that the images reflect eras he personally lived through, turning each visit into an act of remembrance.

The venue has also drawn younger visitors, creating a rare mix of generations in a city where politics remains a constant topic of discussion. Mahmoud Omar told our agency that the surrounding photographs give political debates “context and depth.”

In a country marked by decades of upheaval, residents say Mam Khalil Cafe has remained largely unchanged, preserving collective memory outside official institutions. Locals now commonly refer to it as Erbil’s “political cafe.”